Any restaurant that has their tannie's apple pie and custard permanently on the menu is ok with me. Introducing Bertus Basson's new spot, aptly named after himself at the well known and loved Spice Route in Paarl.
We know Bertus for his respected judging on the tv series Ultimate Braai Master and indeed for his beautiful and award winning first dining establishment Overture, in the scenic Hidden Valley in Stellenbosch.
At Overture Bertus is a Chef, fine cuisine à la mode with a garnish on top. Food so picturesque it will have you weeping into your napkin at the notion of having to ruin the beauty on the plate before you. Actually eating them brings the smile right back though. You can read my article about that fine experience here.
At the Spice Route – Bertus Basson is very much a cook, in his natural habitat - this Afrikaans kitchen wizard is all about flavour, quality traditional ingredients with family and friends around the table. The restaurant is clean and light, the décor is thanks to his wife Mareli.
Kids run for their lives and befriend others on the grassy area alongside the restaurant and parents cheers to having them close enough to keep a beady eye on but far enough that they can enjoy a glass of vino.
Through his menu he pays homage to his roots, a glorious synthesis of South African heritage kos and modern tweaks bringing old favourites to life, out of the school canteen and onto the lush lawns of the truly beautiful al fresco dining area at the Spice Route.
On the menu you'll find the much loved boere salad; now bear in mind this is all good rib-sticking food and even the salad is seriously substantial so don't bother if you are watching your waist line – this is proper food and in any case you certainly won't be needing dinner after a lunch here.
Back to the boere salad, this starter includes everything but the kitchen sink, think cos lettuce, parmesan, home cured biltong, toasted nutty seeds, anchovies and a creamy rich dressing topped with crunchy crostini. “I'll have the salad please” - sounding ever so angelic and virtuous but knowing full well the concoction I was in for – my other half had the utterly luscious chicken liver parfait with three slices of soft sweet toasted Mosbolletjie with an onion caraway jam. Totally delicious and frankly with another glass of Spice Route wine we could have gone straight to dessert. But I am not a quitter.
Mains included rump with a lentil hot pot, a vegetarian sauteed gnocchi with cauliflower and lamb bobotie with cumin yoghurt but we went for the beautiful Weskus herb crusted sole with squid and chorizo and the gorgous CBC beer braised pork belly, crackling and sweet carrots. Chips and braai sout on the side - carpe diem and all that. Hearty grub with small touches that scream flavour at an otherwise relatively normal dish.
At this point two puddings normally always ensue but today it was just the one, as much as this pained me – the dessert menu was triumphant and next time we must take three friends with so I can get my spoon in their desserts too.
Somehow we resisted the famous Tannie Hetta`s apple pie, custard and vanilla ice cream and went for the warm pampoen tert with salted caramel nuts, cinnamon chantilly cream and a rich dark chocolate ice cream, the plate was clean before the coffees came; let's just put it like that. The ginger sago pudding caught my eye with orange and caramel ice cream and the burnt Italian meringue lemon tart also looked pretty damn good.
There is nothing on the menu that we would not have been happy to eat and I really mean that. What a brilliant addition to an already buzzing venue, full of life and people who love good food, beer, wine and even chocolate. Pack the family up and get en route to this utter flavour destination.
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